Orquídeas, Colombianos, y nosotros todos
ColombiaOrchids, Colombians, and us all /
Reflections on Colombia in the last days /
Días 21-23, Sibundoy to the Ecuadorian border at Ipiales
No puedes controlar la lluvia, cápitulo dos
ColombiaYou can’t control the rain, chapter two /
Part 2 of the rainforest saga /
Days off in Mocoa and día 20, el Trampolín de Muerte from Mocoa to Sibundoy
No puedes controlar la lluvia, cápitulo uno
ColombiaYou can’t control the rain, chapter one /
A saga of magical realism in the rainforest /
Día 19, San Agustín to Mocoa (attempted)
Como viajamos
ColombiaHow we travel /
Visiting a town where few Americans go, but it’s not news to Europeans /
Días 17-18, Neiva to San Agustín
Buscando la rumba
ColombiaLooking for the party /
Arriving in the city of Neiva during their annual festival – or not
Un mecato en el desierto
ColombiaA snack in the desert /
Sampling a new region’s cuisine by accident /
Días 15-16, through the desert from Ibagué to Neiva
Las palmas de cera
ColombiaThe wax palms /
Asking, does mass tourism ruin outdoor places? /
Días 13-14, Salento to Ibagué via Paso Quindío
Un cuento de dos campesinos
ColombiaA tale of two coffee growers /
Visits to two very different fincas in Jericó and Filandia, Día 12 – Filandia to Salento
Los cóndores dando vueltas alrededor el páramo
ColombiaThe condors circling the páramo /
Hiking in the páramo before learning that its days are numbered /
Days off in Manizales and Parque de los Nevados, día 11 – Manizales to Filandia
De caerse y levantarse otra vez
ColombiaOn falling and getting up again /
First mechanical failures and bouncing back for the biggest day of cycling I’ve ever had /
Días 9-10, la zona cafetera norte from Jericó to Manizales
Amigos en la ruta
ColombiaFriends on the route /
Running into a few happy cyclists makes the days zoom by /
días 7-8, crossing the cauca river valley from Medellín to Jericó
¿Dónde está Pablo?
ColombiaWhere’s Pablo? /
Revelations from the five week prelude in Medellín, and thoughts upon returning for two days
Estoy cansado, pero soy fuerte
ColombiaI’m tired but I’m strong /
Pondering the psychological implications of the distinction in Spanish between “ser” and “estar” /
días 5-6, climbing into the Andes from Valdivia to Medellín
¿La ruta es segura?
ColombiaIs the route safe? /
Contemplating the frequent question, “do you feel safe?” in the context of a particularly unsettling region /
Día 4 – Bajo Cauca, from Caucasia to Valdivia
La carne de un coco
ColombiaThe meat of a coconut /
On learning that this isn’t a race /
Días 1 – 3 – the Caribbean coast from Cartagena to Caucasia