Los estilos de los ciclistas de La Estrellita
PerúThe styles of the cyclists of La Estrellita /
A bit about some of the cyclists I’ve met and their divergent styles of travel /
Días 81-83, Cusco to Puno, and day off in Puno (Nov 9-12)
¿Incas o extraterrestres?
PerúIncas or aliens? /
Visiting some unexplainable Inca relics /
Días 79-80, Ollantaytambo to Cusco through the Sacred Valley, and rest days in Cusco (Nov 3-8)
Doblando las reglas
PerúBending the rules /
A second visit to Machu Picchu /
Días 76-78, Quillabamba to Ollantaytambo, via Machu Picchu (Oct 30 – Nov 2)
Seducido por la selva
PerúSeduced by the jungle /
Deciding to leave the mountains for a few day fling in the fringes of the Peruvian Amazon /
Días 73-75, Quinua to Quillabamba (Oct 26-29)
Un pais que nadie entiende
PerúA country that nobody understands /
Biking through the area that was “liberated” by the Shining Path terrorist insurgency in the 80s and trying to make sense of it all /
Días 70-72, day off in Ayacucho and Huancavelica to Quinua (October 22-25)
Agradezco cuando hace sol
PerúGrateful when it’s sunny /
Ripping my tire flat in a snowstorm at 16,000′ /
Días 65-66, San Mateo to Tinco Alis through Nor-Yauyos Reserva Natural
Lavando los muros
PerúWashing the walls /
Political problems roiling Perú from the tiny towns of the Andes to the wealthy neighborhoods of Lima /
Día 64, Marcapomacocha to San Mateo and a bus to Lima for a day off
La corrida de toros
PerúThe bullfight /
A surprise fiesta in a tiny mountain town /
Día 63, Vichaycocha to Marcapomacocha
Las termales presidenciales
PerúThe presidential hot springs /
Stumbling upon the corruption of Peruvian politicians /
Día 62, Huancahuasi to Vichaycocha
Más empleo, menos montaña
PerúMore employment, less mountain /
A close-up look at Perú’s mining industry /
Días 59-61, Huallanca to Huancahuasi via the Cordillera Raura
El silencio
PerúThe silence /
Leaving the clamor of Huaraz for the silence of the backcountry /
Días 57-58, Huaraz to Huallanca via Pastoruri glacier
Respeta los apus
PerúRespect the apus (mountain gods) /
Learning the history of both disaster and progress in the glacial Cordillera Blanca while biking through /
Días 53-56, a loop around Nevado Huascarán, from Caraz to Chacas to Huaraz, and off days in Caraz and Huaraz
Un gusto para servirte
PerúA pleasure to serve you /
What happens in my head when my bike breaks, and a friendly Peruvian appears out of nowhere to help me fix it /
Días 48-50, Cajamarca to Trujillo
El sábado es por los gallos
PerúSaturday is for the cocks /
Taken to a cockfight in Cajamarca /
Días 45-47, Leymebamba to Cajamarca
La minga y la mita
PerúCommunity and slavery /
Learning about the Chachapoyas and Inca cultures through their most famous ruins /
Kuélap, Cusco, Machu Picchu, and día 44 – Chachapoyas to Leymebamba
Siempre tengo hambre
PerúI’m always hungry /
Discovering the wonders of Peruvian cuisine /
Días 42-43 from Bagua Grande to Chachapoyas, and a break with Liz in Lima
La guerra de la frontera
PerúThe border war /
More border musings /
Días 40-41, La Balza to Bagua Grande, Perú