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Diarios de BicicletaA bike ride through the Andes
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Written by admin on June 20, 2019

Estoy cansado, pero soy fuerte

Colombia

“Soy muy cansado,” I told the plump vaquero pouring me a glass of orange juice. So tired that I could barely translate the words in my head.

He looked confused for a moment, then belted out laughing in disapproval.

“Estas cansado. Eres fuerte.”

I hung my head in shame. Not only had we learned the difference between the verbs “estar” and “ser” on the very first day of Spanish class, but I had also pondered the interesting dynamic of the two verbs at length. How could I screw it up? Well, probably because I’d been climbing a mountain all day and, as I had tried to tell the vaquero, I was very tired.

Estar and ser both translate into English as “to be,” but they separate the most important verb in our language between that which is temporary and that which is permanent. At first, it pained me to have to process which “is” is the right “is,” but after a while, I started thinking about the cultural implications of this linguistic distinction.

In the English language, we find it easy to blur the distinction between the temporary and permanent. We live for the present. That of the past, was, and that of the future, will be, but there is only one “is” and we strive to optimize that being. The lethargic idiom, “it is what it is” perfectly encapsulates our disregard for the dynamic of the temporal.

Español acknowledges, in the present tense, that feelings, locations, and activities will change. I wondered whether this allows a healthier perspective on emotional balance, on lifelong goals, on self worth, with both more respect for things that are permanent or defined (“ser”) and more objectivity toward the temporal (“estar”).

Psychologists in the US work with clients to use language to adjust their sentiment by using phrases like “I feel stressed” or “I feel sad,” instead of “I am stressed” or “I am sad.” Hamlet certainly could have used the verb “estar” when he confused his temporary state of suffering with his permanent existence, pondering suicide while inquiring, “to be or not to be?”

And nowhere is the acknowledgement of the temporary more important than halfway up the flank of the Andes on a bicycle. “I am tired” elicits despair, but “estoy cansado” allows the hope of revival in the near future.

The vaquero found my bicycle journey hilarious and ridiculous, taking every opportunity in our conversation to whip around to his compañero to crack a joke about me in español, far too fast for me to understand. But jokes aside, his simple grammatical correction was enough to remind me that ¡aunque estoy cansado, soy fuerte!, words which powered me over the summit of Alto de Ventanas and into the Andes.

Estoy muy muy cansado
I stayed in Valdivia, the small town on the ridge. There weren’t any hotels online, so I asked around in an earlier town and was told to ask for a room at the supermarket. I thought I misheard, but sure enough, the owner of the supermarket also owned nearby apartment complex and hooked me up with a flat for 35 mil pesos ($10.60).
Sunrise leaving from Valdivia for the rest of the big climb to Alto de Ventanas
I shared the curvy road with many trucks transporting freight from the coast to Medellín
Fresh water was around every corner so I didn’t have to carry much
Alto de Ventanas is notorious for its fog which is blamed for many big rig accidents. Fortunately, I only had a short section of it.
Higher, the land became tamed by ranches. The contrast of the deforestation with the jungles below was thorough and a little bit unattractive. Water sources also dried up.
At the top! 8,100 ft
Yarumal had a beautiful location on the mountainside but a bit dirty of a town within.
On the other side of the pass, the unattractive ranch land continued.
I stayed in Santa Rosa de Osos, the capital of cowboy country. I was too tired to leave the hotel.
8am traffic jam in Santa Rosa
The closer I got to Medellín, the more the forests and the ranches seemed to find a healthier balance.
First sight of Medellín! It was a loong first 6 days, but I had to get back by Friday in order to attend my Spanish school’s language exchange (party)

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