La minga y la mita
PerúCommunity and slavery /
Learning about the Chachapoyas and Inca cultures through their most famous ruins /
Kuélap, Cusco, Machu Picchu, and día 44 – Chachapoyas to Leymebamba
Siempre tengo hambre
PerúI’m always hungry /
Discovering the wonders of Peruvian cuisine /
Días 42-43 from Bagua Grande to Chachapoyas, and a break with Liz in Lima
La guerra de la frontera
PerúThe border war /
More border musings /
Días 40-41, La Balza to Bagua Grande, Perú
La Virgen del Cisne — ¡de vuelta!
EcuadorThe Virgin of the Swan – it’s back! /
An unexpected roadblock on the border crossing to Perú /
Días 39-40, Vilcabamba to the Peruvian border at La Balza
La Virgen del Cisne
EcuadorThe Virgin of the Swan /
Hunting down a ritual Ecuadorian pilgrimage /
Days off in Cuenca and días 36-38, Cuenca to Vilcabamba
Los perros locos
EcuadorThe crazy dogs /
Clashes with dogs chasing me around Ecuador. Also, (in the pictures) visits to a charitable community hotel and an Inca ruin site. /
Días 34-35, Guamote to Cuenca
Los vientos, cápitulo dos
EcuadorThe wind, chapter two /
Reinspired by a familiar sight /
Day off in Salinas de Bolivar and día 33, Salinas to Guamote via Chimborazo national park
Los vientos, cápitulo uno
EcuadorThe wind, chapter one /
The toughest day yet /
Días 31-32, a mostly remote backcountry route from Quilotoa to Salinas de Bolivar
Las ligas mayores, cápitulo dos
EcuadorThe big leagues, chapter two /
My turn to help a few other adventurers out of some jams /
Días 28-30, Quito to Quilotoa via Cotopaxi national park
Ahhh, la ciudad
EcuadorAhhh, the city /
Revitalizing with friends and beers in Quito
Las ligas mayores, cápitulo uno
EcuadorThe big leagues, chapter one /
Struggling with Ecuador’s more remote trails /
Días 26-27, Otavalo to Cumbayá
El temazcal y tejidos
EcuadorThe temazcal (steam bath) and textiles /
Experiencing indigenous traditions in Otavalo
Orquídeas, Colombianos, y nosotros todos
ColombiaOrchids, Colombians, and us all /
Reflections on Colombia in the last days /
Días 21-23, Sibundoy to the Ecuadorian border at Ipiales
No puedes controlar la lluvia, cápitulo dos
ColombiaYou can’t control the rain, chapter two /
Part 2 of the rainforest saga /
Days off in Mocoa and día 20, el Trampolín de Muerte from Mocoa to Sibundoy
No puedes controlar la lluvia, cápitulo uno
ColombiaYou can’t control the rain, chapter one /
A saga of magical realism in the rainforest /
Día 19, San Agustín to Mocoa (attempted)
Como viajamos
ColombiaHow we travel /
Visiting a town where few Americans go, but it’s not news to Europeans /
Días 17-18, Neiva to San Agustín
Buscando la rumba
ColombiaLooking for the party /
Arriving in the city of Neiva during their annual festival – or not
Un mecato en el desierto
ColombiaA snack in the desert /
Sampling a new region’s cuisine by accident /
Días 15-16, through the desert from Ibagué to Neiva
Las palmas de cera
ColombiaThe wax palms /
Asking, does mass tourism ruin outdoor places? /
Días 13-14, Salento to Ibagué via Paso Quindío